We arrived after 3 hours and laid down our packs on the summit. Emma and I used our combined body heat, attempting to stifle the shivers that overcame us. Nearly half way up the Mt. the clouds moved in and blanked us in a dense wet fog. This blanket of moisture became more intense as we neared the peak. As Emma and I were huddled together, the rains began as the first glimpse of dawn began to glow in the sky.
At 6:30 6 minutes before sunrise, we decided to descend. The journey down was a completely different experience, with the clouds being infused with the dim morning light. Now we could view the surrounding ferns and experience the moisture rich rain forest. We descended for 2 hours at which point the ranger wearing a sea blue tea shirt and boots scolded us for not waking him up at 4 with the 50 Cent registration fee, no problem really On our return to Wildflower Lodge we had a cup of coffee, and took a nap.
Treasure Beach
Wednesday, February 13, 2002
We have been here for about 5 days.
We climbed Blue Mountain Peak, arising at 2 in the morning and instead of the sunrise, got to the foggy mountain Top.
Now we are on the beach jamming to the reggae beach, all is groovy and are about to go to Greg and Chris's Wedding. Emma rises early as we have a little yoga session on the roof. We hooked up with a random crew of freaks our last night there and got a little silly.
White House Jamaica
Monday, February 15, 2002
The wedding 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 went down without a hitch fun was had by all, and many revelations were discovered.
Viñales, Cuba
Thursday, February 21, 2002
Limestone Cliffs hug the valleys, taking over from the dry plains that surround the countryside. Evan, Neil and I throw the disk around near the disco carved out of the cave. Then into the other cave, the others do shots of rum and we wait in line to take the boat out of the cave. The hawkers greet us on the other side trying to sell everything.
Across the street to the bar to drink mohitos. Jesus meets there and joins us for the rest of the evening playing our favorite tunes on his little guitar. We by him dinner at the best damn Paladar in Cuba, El Mason.
Trinidad, Cuba
Tuesday, February 26, 2002
Colonial City Situated four hours from Havana 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 the same as it was in the fifteen hundreds. Change comes slow as the people have been waiting for their time to prosper. Tourists mob the scene and hold many advantages. They can go to the nice hotels and restaurants, while the locals have to contend with the peso only restaurants. We try one of these establishments and are not allowed to stay. The people stare at us as their feelings shine through. Climb up to the hill for the day to the old church, a poor lady takes us into her home and gives us a frozen coconut to suck the icy water out. Then a trip back home to Havana.
London, England
Monday, March 11, 2002
Sitting in the Internet cafe in London, just met Emma. Thoughts of how to Start the Trip. Where to go first, Norway or see bits of London.
Monday, March 12, 2002
51.27.822' North - 000.09.731' West
We settle into James's flat in London. Thai food and bar in NYC Style. Then head to James's office, Jump consulting taking an elevator up to his office to see his business. Emma wants Astanga Yoga class, no other yoga will do. We wake late and inhale our oatmeal on the way to the Clapham Junction Tube. Running to Tri Yoga and arive late and are forced to take the Gently Yoga class with Grandmothers. Then head to the portrait museum and see my relation, William Shakespeare.
Wednesday, March 13, 2001
Running around drizzle everywhere, how could anyone live in London? Portrait Museum yesterday where we found a great painting of William Shakespeare. He looks a whole lot like myself, so Emma says I was him in a past life. Then to the Natural History Museum to see how life begins, and run around with Emma's cousin Amelia and her little nieces. All the while trying to get tickets to India. Emma got a little attached to the little girl.
Oslo, Norway
Friday, March 15, 2002
Took the bus from the airport into Oslo, pine trees everywhere. Get off to look for Louisa, our hostess. After a minute I scream, no day pack; gone. No money, passport, tickets, credit card, palm pilot, nothing except dirty clothes. I turn around and break into a sprint with my big pack on, leaving Emma standing laughing. Thinking that this is the end. Good thing we are in Norway and not India. Run till I can't any longer, and stop to breath. Flag a taxi "where is the bus to the airport?" "Over Der", cool. Sprint again and find it waiting at the Radisson Hotel. The pack is above my seat, my heart settles. Then go search for Emma, find her at the National Theater, where we were supposed to meet Louisa.
Lillihamer, Norway
Saturday, March 17, 2002
Per Henrik, brings us up to Lillihammer, where they held the '94 Winter Olympics 1 . We stay in a cabin with his girlfriend Marit and friend Tone. We ski and snowboard, Emma does great, but I bust my ass trying to snowboard. Cabin living simple, wood burning stove no electricity.
Oslo, Norway
Sunday, March 17, 2002
Whole body is sore, can't get off the couch. Emma gets me to do the morning yoga, but body hurts. Feels better, she keeps scaring me, telling me when we get to India, Patabi Jois is gona make us feel it, up at 4 in the morning putting our legs into pretzels above our head and shit. Gonna see the Royal Tennembaums tonight. Tour around Oslo
Monday, March 18, 2002
We've been doing the Oslo 1 2 3 4 5 city tour thing walking around taking pictures looking at museums. Went to Vigeland Park today, awsome sculptures. Women walking their babies, I don't know why. Walking around the city, kind of grey and cold. Wondering what to do for the weekend.
Friday, March 22, 2002
Coffee shops and women with baby carriages. The women get 9 months paid maternity leave here, that must be the reason for so many. Went to the ski jump 1 2 yesterday, amazing view. Emma brought me up to the yoga on the hill yesterday. We had a little trouble finding it and had to ask some drug dealers where it was. Went to the Norwegian resistance museum, learned about the nazi Occupation and the heroic fight the people led against the Germans.
Sunday, March 24, 2002
Sipping a surprise beer, left the girls to bike home on my own. Afternoon spent at the Munch Museum, admiring a master. Savoring some moments to sit alone and reflect on Norway and beyond. Sun sets here on this early spring day, happy Norwegians strolling on the promenade enjoying their Sunday.
Wednesday, March 27, 2002
Morning bike ride to clear the head, and take care of business. Indian Visa taken care of, then to Bygode to ride in the wilderness. Went to Bergen yesterday, the second largest city in Norway. Took a train and did a little detour to Flam, a mountain village, followed by a boat ride on the fiords. We arrived in Bergen at night and stayed at a hostel on the mountain by town. The next day we strolled around Bergen stopping at the
seaport to sample the local smoked salmon, crab, and shrimps. Wonderful place.
Paris, France
Friday, March 29, 2002
Un cafe and a Super Oeuf, sitting in the park between the Louvre and the Champs Elysees. Took a morning walk around Paris. Cooked some trout with wild rice and asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce last night. We're staying with Ingrid and Pete in a beautifullate apartment in the 7th Arr. Visited the apartment where Emma used to live back in '97.
Saturday, March 30, 2002
Versailles Palace, where Louis the XIV built the elaborate Chateau. Went with Ing and had to wait in line for 2 hours. But so beautiful none the less. Strolling around the gardens and sitting by the canal with all the French.
Sunday, March 31, 2002
Joining the herds strolling through Montmarte. Climbing through the hills of the beautiful Sacre Coeur church. We spot a little sing along . Then descend and stroll through some Sunday markets and watch this brawl develop. Paris corners are the best.
Monday, April 1, 2002
Spent the day at the botanical gardens 1 2 3 4 5 and the Picasso Museum 1 2 3 4. Walked down a beautiful canal on the way. Then go to the Pompidou Center and watch a church group.
Tuesday April 2, 2002
Parents joined the fun today and we walked around Paris, Mom showed us where she used to live. Then sat and had some cafes. Then to the Notre Dame Church much incense and lit some candles.
Nice, France
Saturday, April 6, 2002
Spent the past 3 days driving throughout the South of France with the Folks. Stopped in some beautiful towns, and ate the best food ever.
Monday, April 8th
Stayed with cousins Eric, Emily and Noah, in their fabulous villa in Vence, near Nice. Spent 5 days there eating mucho frites, and cruising the promenade at Nice. Emma and Noah having a little rest. Hiked with mom up to the mountains behind Vence.
London, England
Tuesday, April 13, 2002
Arrived back in town for one day stopover and BBQ with the family. And a final bus ride around town. Stopped by the Portrait Gallery to see Mario Testino exhibit.
New Delhi, India
Friday, April 12, 2002
Arrived in India yesterday, flying into a heat wave in Delhi so of course Emma's been in heaven in this intense heat! She loves it! Alex is detained at immigration desk while it takes 10 Indian immigration clerks to work out that he is not an infamous, drug dealing Englishman who had recently visited India..nor does his name start with Duncan. We finally made it to our cool hotel called Ajunta Hotel which has all facilities you could possibly imagine. We took the "best room in the hotel" for $30 per night with AC, huge bed and sundeck which is perfect for a intimate breakfast on terrace or early morning yoga. In-house restaurant, room-service and internet access is all 24 hours. Plus our own airline, train, and taxi booking service in hotel. Not to mention a wonderfully eclectic menu.(Thanks "Lonely Planet") Taking an auto Rickshaw the first night was a rude awakening. Tomorrow we fly to Mysore and within a day or two will start our month with Pattahbi Jois studying Ashtanga yoga. It will be hard work, especially in the heat.
Saturday, April 13, 2002
Went for a tour of Delhi today saw Hindu Temple, Red Fort, 2 3, Ghandi's Tomb, Delhi Gate with monkies 2 3, and a cool temple Local Style, Only white people on the bus, left at 9:30 in morning and got home at 8 PM. Tired only to find that the 34 hour train ticket down south was not available, so the man was kind enough to book us on the 42 hour train. We decided maybe it would be better to fly-there goes the budget. An extra $500, ouch. No worries. Visiting Ayuruvedic Doctor for Emma's cold.
Mysore, India
Monday, April 15, 2002
We arrived in Bangalore, and headed to the train station. Easy. Got on the train and made our way to Mysore. Mid-trip. Train stops and we hear that there has been a derailment on the train in front of us. We need to find alternative means of transport. We follow about 2000 other unhappy passengers down the path and contemplate our situation. Hot, and confused, we walk along, and a man approaches us and asks if we would like a ride for 300 rupees. About six dollars. Things have a way of working themselves out here.
Wednesday, April 17, 2002
Been touring the sites of Mysore, Went to the Zoo and sat with the elephants. Also freaked Emma out by seeing Black Hawk Down.
Friday, April 19, 2002
Shaved all my hair off today.
Sunday, April 21, 2002
Our wedding anniversary today. 2 Years of blissful marriage, usually. Now sitting in Mandela, having finished 2 hour Astanga practice. Feeling very good and peaceful. We're exploring Mysore, Botanical Gardens and Chamundi Hill. Went to hear Some Raga Music last night at the Palace. Unbelievable. The Scene here is like a yoga summer camp. People from all over the world, coming here to study Astanga. Meeting friends who you get to know well quickly. We live in a large house on:
967/2
Dewans Road, Chamaraja Mohalla
Mysore, India
Post cards would be appreciated. 3 bedroom house. We moved in and was greeted by a lovely team of roaches the first night and Mosquitoes the second. We have been fighting a successful battle so far against these pests. We study at the Mandela, a place that's a bit controversial. Lots of gossip about the people running it, but it has a great teacher named Sheshadri, who leads us in practice. The place has food and hosts several workshops and classes. Most people study with Patabi Jois. They regard him as a living master and are more then willing to shell out the $550 for his month long classes. We chose the more economical route for $100. We go over to the Southern Star Hotel for swimming and sunbathing often.
Tuesday, April 30, 2002
Getting into our 3rd week here in Mysore. Things are settling down a bit now. We got a roommate from Sydney, her name is Millie. The house is feeling more homey now. We went down to this organic farm 1 2 3 over the weekend. About 2 hours from Mysore. Hosted by Juli and Vivek. They got a groovy little farm thing happening. Agriculture as everything was grown there, from the organic cotton for the clothes to the spices, rice and vegetables. We had a little fashion show 1 2 3 4 while we were there. We had a great time with their three little children. On the way home we got a flat tire and had to break 1 and enjoy the sunset.
Outside our house these elephants(movie) come by every day and Emma decided to ride one. Then all kinds of people 1 walk by and ask for a handout.
Friday, May 3rd, 2002
Been taking some cooking classes 1 2 3 4 5 6 over the past couple of days. We learnt how to make Mung Beans and Zucchini, Mixed Veg Curry, Lemon Rice, Chickpea Dahl, and Dosas. To have a look at the recipes click here.The class was taught at a place called The Three Sisters. It's a place run by three sisters that offer everything from castor oil baths to motorcycle rentals to delicious frozen lassies.
We had a little party last night, Had all our friends over to taste a little al cooking | Nuria(from Spain) and Jonathon(who organizes ps.1 Warm up!) | 2 | Brian and Juan | Adosh | Pam | 4
Sunday, May 5th, 2002
We went to Srirangapatna a town about 20 km north of Mysore. It was here that Tipu Sultan was defeated by the British on May 4th 1799. It was a funny little town and we were joined by hoards of Indian Tourists. And some locals hanging out by the Ghats, and got a tour of the old Mosque. Cruzin on the
Wednesday, May 8th, 2002
Large chai and Rice Pulau for Breakfast, sitting amongst the Indians at Mahesh Prasad, the best food place in Mysore. Waiters dressed in khaki uniforms roam the place dishing out the orders with amazing speed. A couple of gentleman sit across from me, a little apprehensive to be dining across from whity. Most yoga people eat at the western spots, but I love to get out among the local people. On my way from yoga, I stopped and saw this great Indian wedding(movie).
Monday, May 13th, 2002
We went to Ooty this past weekend. Spent a weekend away, up to the mountains, to try and get away from it all. Rode the Yamaha 2 hours through the plains and then took the short cut up through the mountains another couple of hours. Meanwhile, we spotted a troop of black faced monkeys and stopped at Madurai to have a chai and watch some cows. Quite a road, the bike struggled to get out of first gear with Emma and I riding up the steep slope and passing young folk. Coming into Ooty we spotted a huge volleyball game We spent 2 days there seeing all the sites we especially liked the botanical gardens and the lake. We came back on Sunday coming down the same back shortcut.
Thursday, May 16th, 2002
Yesterday we attended our first Indian wedding 1 2 . Quite the elaborate affair. It was the wedding of a student of my drawing teachers. He was kind enough to invite three of us to the affair. The banquet was immense requiring three rounds to serve all the folks. All food served on banana leaf.
Sunday, May 19th, 2002
We went to The Golden Temple and Serja Monestery 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 for the night yesterday. This is a settlement of Tibetan Monks that were brought down and given a piece of land about 90 kms from Mysore. We took the public bus and arrived in about 2 hours. The hotel was beautiful costing only $2.50 a night for Emma and myself. We went to a Puja(religious service) 1 2 3 4 (movies) 1 2 3 and debate (when pairs of monks quiz each other in Buddhists Doctrine). We watched as the monks left the meal hall 1 and then checked out the construction of a new temple 1 2 with fine detail. Then we climbed to the top and got an amazing view.
Monday, May 20th, 2002
Yesterday, there was a yoga demonstration at our Shala(yoga school). It was pretty interesting with the yoga troop performing in front of everyone. Sheshadri, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 (movies) 1 2 3 4 , then got in front of the stage and did his thing for everyone to see. I tried to imitate our esteemed guru. We have decided to adopt a little puppy girl named Juanita. She gets into a bit of trouble though.
Sunday, June 2nd, 2002
Bangalore, India
Traveled to Bangalore for the weekend, actually not Bangalore but a place called Whitefields where Sri sai Baba has an ashram. We went there to learn Reiki from a woman named Rama, who is a wonderful Reiki Master. When we got there we discovered that it was across the street from the Sai Baba ashram and couldn't help but drop in and see what this legendary guru was all about. It isn't everyday that one can meet an Avatar. Getting up at 5 and waiting in lines with thousands of devotees was definitely an experience. Topped by having him roam the aisles and bless all. It's quite amazing walking the streets and saying "sai Ram" to all that cross you're path.
Monday, June 3rd, 2002
Mysore, India
Everyone is freaking out about Pakistan. The situation is pretty relaxed here, you wouldn't even know there is a threat of Nuclear war. People just go on with their business. It's actually all the people who are not here that seem to be loosing it; which seems a bit strange. On other news, Emma shaved her head 1 2 3 4 pam (friend) today 1 2 3 4 5
Monday, June 10th, 2002
Mysore, India
Getting ready to get back on the road. Going away parties and stuff. Emma is going to stay and finish her month with Patabi, while I am going to travel solo for a while. Emma is doing this Aruvedic message course with Kummar, so I have been fortunate to recieve a bunch of these. We completed our Pranyama course with Mr. Iyngar and Emma Pam Alex
Wednesday, June 12th, 2002
Mysore, India
Today is the big day, we are off. Go to the train station and recieve a fond farewell from all our mysore friends. Emma and I embrace knowing that it will be weeks until we meet again. On the train, we have a wonderful transvestite welcoming committee.
Thursday, June 13th, 2002
Hampi, India
Monkeys mingle atop Hanamon Temple here in Hampi, climbing up we spot many centipedes. The three of us (Pam and Jake) hop from rock to rock peering at the vast ancient ruins below. The wind blows with a constant hum, as the sun seeks the clouds for cover as it descends towards the Earth. Rice fields spread in all directions sustaining the simple people of the region. All are with smiles and innocent "Hello, what you names". Gaps in the banana trees below create geometrical shapes whose names escape me, Rhombus or something like that. The lone tree fused onto the rock catches the wind and creates a constant hum. Hampi is a tourist town out of season, the best time to visit. The overnight train, with transvestites, brought us here. Like sleeping our way to heaven. Sleek birds fly in formation overhead.
Friday, June 14th, 2002
Hampi, India
Coconut waller provides us with fresh coconut water, then serves us his rice, that his mother was kind enough to prepare. I promise to send him photo of the whole event.
Saturday, June 15th, 2002
Hampi, India
Morning Meditations followed by Pineapple and Coconut Wind howled all night and is still blowing hard. John Coletraine is playing softly in the background. We spent 9 hours touring the temples 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (The Rest) (pan) (pan 2) yesterday, still didn't quite see everything, even with a personal guide. They say there are over 3,000 temples here. One could spend months looking around. Amazing remnants of a Kingdom that ceased long ago. The locals live amongst the ruins, which instead of palaces are now simple huts. The owners of the bungalows 2 where we stayed is now pacing along the rice paddocks. He was up all night with his tractor getting everything ready.
Sunday, June 16th, 2002
Hampi, India
Climbing to hilltop overlooking the north side of Hampi. Pealing and eating a juicy Pineapple and rotten bananas. I sit inside a gazebo that lies next to a run down temple. The wind continues to blow steadily, as the sun seeks to escape from the morning clouds of the approaching monsoon. Inside the small temple sit 10 incarnations of Vishnu. Boulders surround the hill top making the whole scene seems like something out of the road runner. The valley is dotted with vibrant green rice paddies, where farmers roam. Leaving, one has to cross a river, with the boat man, who has a monopoly, and charge 20 cents for the 3 minute journey.
Monday, June 17th, 2002
Gokarna, India
"Kumpta" shouts the bus driver who gives me about 2 seconds warning before ejecting me out of the night bus into the monsoon rains and into the shelter of the rest stop. It is 2:30 AM, the tout told me I would arrive at 6AM. The night workers inform me that the first bus to Gokarna is not until 6:30. OK, no worries sit and have a chai while the rain comes down in sheets and the Indian workers yell at me in their dialect. No sleep is possible and I just read my book Autobiography of a Yogi. After 4 hours the sky brightens and still no sign of bus. I ask the man at the counter if the bus actually stops here. "Oh no, you must go and flag it down on the road", as he says this we both hear a noise on the road, and sprint. There is the mini bus and it stops. Thank god for good questions.
Tuesday, June 18th, 2002
Gokarna, India
Arrived in Gokarna in full mini bus and ended up speaking with a nice Indian family from Dubai. The grandfather was a bit of a philosopher and spoke frequently about the lord and other things. Got down in Gokarna amid downpour, and witnessed the older Brahmin men roaming the streets in their lungis. Gokarna is a bit of a pilgrimage spot, and Indians from all over the country come here to pay tribute to Shiva. I found a room near the beach and spent the afternoon napping and listening to the rain. The next day, I got up early and walked to OM beach with is so named due to the resemblance of the beach to an OM symbol. I was lucky to time the pauses in the rains properly and to make just in time to the only chai shop on the beach. There I met Suresh, who helps run the place in the off season. We chatted for hours and as the morning turned to afternoon, I embarked for Gokarna. Again I was lucky to time the rains properly.
Wednesday, June 19th, 2002
Konkan Railway, India
Drifting Amongst the coconut palms and the rice paddies of Kerala. Aboard the Konkan Railroad heading down to Cochin, the heart of Kerala. The moist earth is cool and calm, watching the Indian coastal landscape roll by, one is lulled into a peaceful calm. The overnight journey is quite nice, sleeping on the train and then being awakened by the chai wallers shouting in your ear "Chaiiii". Met some nice people on the train, and ended up playing some games of chess with a group who was heading to Cochin for a chess tournament. Got my ass whooped.
Friday, June 21st, 2002
Cochin, India
Busy day running around the ancient port city of Cochin. Went to see an ancient Jewish synagogue here. Built in the 16th century, as I was leaving, I was induced into buying some cool rugs and stuff. I got a ride home from a "poor man" who rowed me around the island back to my neighborhood. I was on my way to the railway station when the owner of the store runs after me and tells me that I forgot my credit card there. Missed the train and took it as a sign to spend another day here and watch the USA world cup game. The best site is the Chinese Fishing Nets, where the locals collect the best catch each day. I was lucky to feast on some amazing grilled shrimp here.
Saturday, June 22nd, 2002
Cochin, India
Egg Curry and Appam(a fermented sort of tortilla) for breakfast at the Cochin Train station, waiting on a 7:30 train to Varkala, the glorious beach town that everyone raves about. Very nice sipping a coffee, and watching the early morning commute.
Monday, June 24th, 2002
Kandy, Sri Lanka
"Take My Breath away," from Top Gun I think. They definitely listen to some strange music. Waiting for a coffee to have with my chocolate cake. Made it out of India despite worries of loved ones. The trip was actually quite easy and organized. Sitting in the cafe here, I notice the differences between the Lankans and the Indians. The folks here are a nicer bunch and being Buddhists, maybe have a more pragmatic view on life. Where the Indians kind of put all cares on their various gods. I got up at 6 and went to the Temple of the tooth today. A beautful Budhist temple where one of the Budha's teeth is kept, people walk through the elephants legs for good fortune (I had to try). They have pujas in the mornin and everyone pays their respects. All the old ladies dressed in starched white robes. Then we climb to the big Budha on the hill and find a school trip in progress with dancing teachers.
Tuesday, June 25th, 2002
Pinnawela, Sri Lanka
Elephants 2 3 4 5 6 everywhere, 68 in total, they come from all walks of life. Saved from an uncertain future, the orphanage takes care of their every want and need. They are now bathing in the river, as eager onlookers pose with them and the children give a little pet to the babies. One of the infant's moves into position to get a good suck at the mother's huge nipple. Meanwhile a friendly guide offers to take me to a spice garden, or ride an elephant or buy a hat, or a host of other things that I am not too keen on. In fact, I have noticed that the "guides," of Sri Lanka make themselves quite a nuisance They turn up everywhere, asking what is your country, and starting conversation that really is only to try and get you to do something they have in mind. They always have a friend/uncle, who has a shop near buy, and is willing to give you a good price. It takes a little while to develop the skills necessary to ignore them and walk away. The Elephants are now coming back from their romp in the river. Play time is over and it's time to go home.
Friday, June 28th, 2002
Wednesday, June 26th, 2002
On the way to Nilambe
Bus trip to Nilambe. Totally overcrowded local Sri Lankan bus, really too crowded. Then the tire blows out and we are all spilled onto the side of the road. I'm doing yoga just trying to stand up. Cool people all around on the bus. Then get down at the bottom of the mountain and walk up through tea plantations.
Friday, June 28th, 2002
Nilambe, Sri Lanka
A plate hangs in my room with a picture of a Buddha and the words: "Be Well and Happy," that pretty much sums up Nilambe Meditation center. Nestled on the top of a mountain, the meditation center retreat is the definition of tranquility. The views all look out into the tea covered valley far below. Above the center is a pine tree forest, where one can stroll around sunset and listen to the wind whip around the valley. We sit in meditation 4 times a day and spend the rest of the the time enjoying the birds and trees. The food is pure, for breaky we had sweet potato,shredded coconut and banana. There is a blend of westerners and Sri Lankans which is really nice to see. It takes some time to slow down the mind from its normally restless state. The silence allows one to calm the mind and witness the truth.
Sunday, June 30th, 2002
Nilambe, Sri Lanka
So many sounds constantly abuz. Squires make a bird like squeaking sound and an array of bird life passes the day in song. Then, after sunset, a whole new thing happens, the little critters come to life, Buzz buzzing away; why? Constantly aware of all things watching the days pass. Just see the moment, this is the training. I think something we all instinctively know from sometime way back. Wind blows which causes the leaves to vibrate, signaling the universal truth: Just a bunch of constantly changing vibrations both body and mind. The connection is there to observe, just take a moment, then another, a string of moments, ever changing, we can just observe. Look at the chickpeas there in the bowl. Covered with freshly shredded coconut. That the little Sri Lankan man grated at 5 this morning. Silver spoon diving in to collect the unsuspecting beans and send them on an express journey into my waiting mouth. Old flavors mix as I imagine the chickpea taste and all its varied forms. Amazing what can become of a little bean. Small Korean girl answers my unspoken wish for a cup of tea, which seems like the answer to a prayer. Now time for working meditation and the bringing of fresh compost to the garden up above the dining hall. Shower shave and then the wooden gong signaling morning meditation.
Monday, July 1st, 2002
Nilambe, Sri Lanka
After breakfast, I took the ax from the kitchen man and had a little go at chopping wood meditation. I was corrected a couple of times as to the correct method. Reading Light on the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali. Going right to the source of it all. Definitely a bit esoteric, but this is the environment of the understanding. It teaches that the path is quite dangerous and there are many pitfalls along the way. Least of which is enjoying day to day life. One can only do ones best and strive with strong determination and right effort. - The sun comes over the pine covered ridge signaling the end of working meditation. The time is measured by sun position, quite an ingenious concept really. Sounds still going strong, birds and squirrels unite.- This night, leaving the meditation hall, I look up and spot the light of a firefly, but it's not moving, just giving of an unwavering blinking light like a beacon. I shine my flashlight up and see that it's caught in a spider's web and the poor creature is beam wrapped in a cocoon, no hope, only fading light.
Tuesday, July 2nd, 2002
Nilambe, Sri Lanka
A strong mist envelopes the hillside. A towel out to dry is bombarded by dense water vapor ignoring the one foot overhang of the tiled roof outside my door. Breakfast is indicated by the boom boom of the wooden gong that serves as our master. It signals us when to wake up, when to meditate, and when to eat. Who bangs it I'm really not sure, but they way they hit it, I think they really enjoy the job. Gray porridgewith a mingling of roasted peanuts, ripe bananas, and sweet dates that all combine to an unexpected culinary experience. The taste is quite concise, when one is savoring each bite. The sound of the rain on the corrugated metal roof is a chorus to the internal sound of the chew. - This is my last full day in Nilambe 1 2 3 4 5 6. I must say that it has been quite a joyful time, even with my naughty mind always asking to leave. I find it a constant habit with my mind to always want to go. Here, I am learning to enjoy the moment. Quite difficult indeed. Hours of practice, giving some reward and the knowledge that there is a long journey ahead. Moment to moment, slowly slowly, it shall all unfold in time.
Thursday, July 4th, 2002
Kandy, Sri Lanka
Independence day. Doesn't really feel like it here. I'll take a moment and dwell on it though. Back in Kandy, trying to re-acclimate to real life, if this is real. Waiting for Emma, not really sure when exactly she is coming. Just wait and see.
Saturday, July 6th, 2002
Nilavelli, Sri Lanka
Emma met me in Kandy and we decided to rent a motorcycle and head to the East coast of Sri Lanka to celebrate my 30th. The trip is a blast, but is quite painful on our backsides, we desperately need the tea stop with the resident muslims. We search out the only hotel on the coast, the Nilavelli Beach Resort, a wonderful place in a war-torn region. We fetch the most expensive suite in the place for $50 a night. A duplex overlooking the ocean, can't beat it.
Monday, July 8th, 2002
Nilavelli, Sri Lanka
30 today, tried unsuccessfully to get up at 5 this morning. Finally manage to wake up Emma. She fetches my pressie. I unwrapt the star of David wrapping paper, I spy a watch, havn't worn one of them in like 10 years. It's beautiful complete with tide and moon modes, just in case. Finally figure out how to set the alarm, when a knock at the door brings a waiter with a stuffed basket of fruit and coffee. We transfer out to the balcony where the rising sun over the bay of bengal warms our soul, and we listen to the waves.
Tuesday, July 9th, 2002
Nilavelli, Sri Lanka
Fiona Apple playing on my little music box. Sticky Jack Fruit on the table after it shed its super-glue like fibers all over my fingers. Then, taking the motorcycle down the Lankan road, past multiple road blocks and check points. One can feel the tension that has existed in this region for 20 years, only temporarily resolved in the past 2 months. We speak with Tamils and Sinhalese people and find that they all hate and mistrust the other. Hold ing little hope for the future of their tenuous cease-fire.
Wednesday, July 10th, 2002
Polonuwara, Sri Lanka
It came down to 83 cents. The difference between me and the hotel owner. I can't pay the $2 for toast. I just got on the motorcycle and left, but the whole ride I couldn't help but think how rich I was compared to these people. I got so angry and threatened to call the Lonely Planet. We had spent the entire day roaming the ruins of Polonuwara 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 , the ancient Sinhalese temple complex. We came from the coast yesterday lunching at Trincomalle, the capital of the region, and so devoid of any sort of toursim. We visited and ancient Hindu temple that sits on a point on the ocean.
Thursday, July 11th, 2002
Dumbola, Sri Lanka
Exploring the caves 2 3 4 at Dumbola. On our way back to Colombo.
Saturday, July 13th, 2002
Bangkok, Thailand
Emma and are now in Bangkok and boy has it changed since the last time I was here, nearly 4 years ago. For one thing there are young whities everywhere, kind of like Disney World, only with an Asian Background. It's a little bit discerning being part of the mix after 3 months in India/Sri Lanka, where all those types had been scared off by Mr. Bush. It's like a farm, with all the Thai people milking the tourists every day. Anyway, we went out with Bier, a Thai friend who I met in Sri Lanka. He took us around Bangkok in his shiny new BMW. Cruzing the streets my mouth was watering looking at all the brightly lit food stalls open at all hours of the night. There is just too much yummy food everywhere, it's difficult to go out of your room. We're making plans to head to the coast, not really sure where, we'll just wait and find a good place to go.
Saturday, July 14th, 2002
Bangkok, Thailand
New Joe Guest House, sun falling across the outdoor restaurant. Our waiter, a young Thai man wears a sign that says "Waitress in Training" we joke with the other waitress that he is a lady boy, the ubiquitous transvestites that thrive in the Thai night. Lunch with our man Bier at the "place with no tourists". The food was delicious: Tom Yam, shrimp in black bean sauce, and a steamed Bass that was to die for. Now waiting for our "VIP" night bus down to the islands. Going to start at Koh Tao, the scuba diving paradise.
Monday, July 16th, 2002
Koh Tao, Thailand
Got off the boat with no idea where to go. The main town of Mae Hadd spread about 200m from the pier. A pretty Thai woman and English bloke met us at the ferry and described a beautiful place that they were staying. After a coffee and Croissant, we accompanied them in their new Toyota truck and journeyed over the small island to the Pahun view Bungalow. Through the palm trees and down into a private cove, When we pulled into the place, all the people in the open air restaurant turned around and had a look at the invaders to their private paradise. We felt a little like the folks in "The Beach," who turned up on the island, only to find it wasn't the utopia they had foreseen. After waiting in the "reception" for some minutes, we were told that they only had one room for the three of us. Then we headed down to the water, and I found some good rocks to go cliff jumping off of. Then Emma entertains us with her music 2.
Monday, July 16th, 2002
Koh Tao, Thailand
Got off the boat with no idea where to go. The main town of Mae Hadd spread about 200m from the pier. A pretty Thai woman and English bloke met us at the ferry and described a beautiful place that they were staying. After a coffee and Croissant, we accompanied them in their new Toyota truck and journeyed over the small island to the Pahun view Bungalow. Through the palm trees and down into a private cove, When we pulled into the place, all the people in the open air restaurant turned around and had a look at the invaders to their private paradise. We felt a little like the folks in "The Beach," who turned up on the island, only to find it wasn't the utopia they had foreseen. After waiting in the "reception" for some minutes, we were told that they only had one room for the three of us. Then we headed down to the water, and I found some good rocks to go cliff jumping off of. Then Emma entertains us with her music 2.
Thursday, July 19th, 2002
Koh Tao, Thailand
Louisa and I went on the real scuba adventure yesterday. A huge two storey boat holding about 40 eager young divers. They broke us down into little groups so that we wouldn't get lost. All jumping in and finding our way to the bottom of the sea. Swimming around vast rock pinnacles and then spending a short time on the second dive because Louisa wanted to go up. Then we lounged on the beach and had a couple Long Island Iced Teas just like home. Pity my head was throbbing the next morning, which is not very conducive to the yoga lifestyle. Now back at the Swiss Bakery (bomb)in Mae Had, waiting for the ladies. We're heading to Koh Pan Ngan to check out the Sanctuary and see how much that island has changed since I was there 6 years ago.
Friday, July 20th, 2002
Koh Pan Ngan, Thailand
After taking the long boat from Had Rin, we find our bungalows nestled amongst the trees at the sanctuary. We wake early and attend the 8 am yoga class which is located on a hill overlooking the forest and beach. Now I sit and watch Emma attack her porridge, adding the raisins and muesli that we snuck into the Sanctuary restaurant trying to save a few dollars. The place is still here nestled amongst the palms, but there are some serious changes. Now a spa/resort catering to upscale travelers, a big change from the cheap backpacker hangout I remember from the last time. I tried fasting but ended up heading into Had Rin, the party place, and spied a Bakery where I indulged in a much need bagel with cream cheese and all the fixings and a phat latte. Had Rin is teeming with youths all here to take full advantage of the party environment, all waiting patiently for the full moon party which ironically enough is not on the full moon 2 3 4 at all but 2 days later due to Buddha day. I'm still trying to comprehend the Had Rin dynamic. The masses gathering together around the full moon to have a sanitized festival away from real life. Never too far away from the comforts of home.
Sunday, July 22nd, 2002
Koh Pan Ngan, Thailand
Hammocks line the front of the Sanctuary restaurant by the beach. Early morning, they lie empty, as people congregate in the morning sunshine. Looking out at the aqua blue sea, several heads poke out of the calm water. Happy and relaxed people all around. Many dogs mull about in search of trouble. The lone small horny horse on the beach searches for some tourists which he can mount. My heart is beating heavily feeling the ultrahigh dose of caffeine from the thick condensed milk coffee. Taxi boats wait by the shore for the whities heading to Had Rin. All is calm and peaceful
Sunday, July 28th, 2002
Bangkok, Thailand
Back in Bangkok 2 3 4 after nearly 2 weeks down on the islands. The trip back was a bit of an ordeal: A ferry to Surat Thani then we were manhandled into an over crowded "VIP" bus. Sharing the bottom floor of the bus with 10 other backpackers all lying all over each other for the overnight journey back. Now waiting till Monday to get our visas in order to head to Laos, should be a few days.
Wednesday, July 31st, 2002
Bangkok, Thailand
Lounging by the pool at Justine's beautiful apartment. Running around Bangkok trying to get the Laos visa. We end up hitting some golf balls (Emma) while we wait for the visa to come through. Waiting for Cam and Jannie to arrive so we can head to Cambodia.
Thursday, August 1st, 2002
Siem Riep, Cambodia
Stuck at the Cambodia border, Emma has some immigration issues. She ran out of room on her old passport so now has 2 passports which has greatly confused the Cambodian border official. We were shoved on a bus with 50 other tourists and when we arrived near the border of Thailand, we decided to not wait the 2 hours that the tour wanted us to wait and to cross the border on our own. We seem to be spending close to the 2 hours waiting for these little people to figure out that Emma is not a threat to their national security. The border town of Poipet is swarming with children all offering to hold a umbrella over your head. Really quite a chaotic scene with the ox drawn carts passing each other on this busy border. We are now traveling with friend Cam and Jane. We all wait to get out of the state of Limbo between Thailand and Cambodia.
Friday, August 2nd, 2002
Siem Riep, Cambodia
Had a really bad day yesterday! Finally got Emma's passport from the immigration chaps at the border. We still had to get to Siem Riep where the temples of Anchor are located. We had been warned about the ride scams in Bangkok. They have false breakdowns and many delays with the hope of getting you into town past 10pm and forcing you to stay at their awful guest house so they can get their commission. We knew it all and still we fell into the trap and arrive at 10 after 17 hours on the road. We also knew that the best way to get them back was to not step into the guest house and to walk away so they didn't get paid. We did this and were pursued and hassled and finally I was accosted with a couple balls of dirt flung in my face from the passing attackers on scooter. Hey its Cambodia, I guess it could be worse. We did finally get away and found a delightful guest house with great rooms for $5.
Monday, August 5th, 2002
Siem Riep, Cambodia
Monday, August 5th, 2002
Phnom Penn, Cambodia
On the 6th floor of the Sunshine Guesthouse. Sitting on the balcony overlooking the Tonle Sap River. Long tail boats and barges ply up and down the monsoon-swelled river. The constant hum of scooters and horns provides a tranquil chorus to the slow Monday morning. We came on the fast boat from Siem Riep and were pleased to find that the trip was all that was promised. Up for a pick-up at 5:30 and arriving in the rain at noon. We sat on the roof of the speedboat and got soaked from below by the waves and then soaked from above by the falling rain.
Wednesday, August 7th, 2002
Phnom Penn, Cambodia
Wandering around the smelly steets of Phenom Penn.
Thursday, August 8th, 2002
Poipet
We're now in movement. All day journeying from Phnom Penn to Poipet, the border with Thailand. Started with a 7 AM super speed boat on the Tonle Sap. Speeding along the calm water, watching the simple Cambodian boat life fly past. They live right on lake, which actually changes its direction during the monsoon season, as the Mekong floods and empties into the Tonle Sap. After five rather painless hours, we arrive at the ferry town. Mass chaos, throngs of little Cambodians with signs, waiting for us to get down, like fishermen throwing their nets out hoping for a 6 foot tourist to come in their net. They all are well versed in the art of telling lies, it's impossible to know who is truthful. We are loaded onto scooters and told that we will be dropped at the Ivy Guesthouse for free. OK, so we get going and five minutes down the road my driver asks how much I will give. I protest saying I was quoted a free price. I'm about to get off when the reality of the situation hits and I am far away from the Siem Reip with land mines scattering the countryside. "How much do you want?" "One dollar", OK no worries perspective hits. We were considering spending another day at Anchor Wat, but now we decide to try and make a run for the border right away. We are dropped off at a gas station in Siem Reip and are loaded into the cab of a pickup, we are told, going strait to the border. We start down the crater laced road and after 4 hours are stopped at a bus station in Sisiphon. I look back and see someone pulling my backpacks out of the truck, "no no no", I get out, check my anger before grabbing our packs and find out that the truck is not going any further. We are hustled into a second truck, told that we are going to the border. This time indeed we make it to Poipet, and are told that the border closed at 5. Now its 5:30, I don't believe and we trudge the mile or so to find out if this is not another clever half-truth devised to make us stay. Indeed the border is closed, and we decide to camp out at the Tropicana Resort and Casino, which is one of the 4 casinos that have sprung up on the border with Thailand. They really don't belong here, something out of a mad max film really. I don't want to spend the $30 on a room but am tempted by the meals that are included. I am convinced and we take the room. Buffet dinner, pseudo western, and then blackjack where I loose $25 but have a great time on the $1 tables.
Saturday, August 10th, 2002
Vientiane Laos
Two days full of bus to reach Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Beautiful colonial city, right on the Mekong. Filled with heaps of old colonial architecture and temples. We spend a couple days walking around the city touring monsestaries and meeting monks. On our second day, we are approached by Kul, pronounced "cool". He convinces us that it is our best interest to accompany him his wife, Louise, and the Canadian couple Hew and Suzanne on a 10 hour ride up to Luang Probang, the old capital north in the mountains. He approached us at the Scandinavian Bakery, as we were having our usual Latte and Croissant. We agreed and were told that we would leave the next day at 7. Somehow, everyone we have met in Laos so far has been like our parents age. Very strange. The trip was pretty un-eventfull, except for a landslide that slowed us down an hour. Funny how the people take advantage of the slightest mishaps charging money to push us out of the ditch.
Sunday, August 11th, 2002
Luang Probang, Laos
Courtesy of Emma:
Luang Prabang in Laos has recently been appointed one of the World Heritage Sites and when you arrive here you realize why. This beautiful old French settled town is scattered with up to 30 Buddhist Temples or known in Lao as a "Wat" most of which were built over 500 years ago. Most of the Wats feature also Buddhist stupas which are a religious dome shaped statue which the monks circle around anti-clockwise as they make their daily prayers. With the many Wats are many Buddhist monks strolling around town wearing their brightly coloured orange robes (photo) and often seen with umbrellas to protect their (precious) skin from the harsh sun! People of Laos and Cambodia always wear hats or use umbrellas as protection from the sun, as dark skin is not desirable. In fact skin whitening face products are available everywhere to achieve that porcelain white skin.
The town is situated where the Mekong River meets the ? river, and therefore the old section of the town is a peninsular so that each river can be viewed from either side of the town (not dissimilar to Manhattan as Alex pointed out). The streets are green and lush, full of coconut trees, palms and the fragrant frangipani trees. Just strolling along the rivers or through the small streets is a sensation of the senses
As the town was settled by the French in the 1900's there are various fragments remaining that suggest a French influence. Many of the buildings are built with French Style wooden shutters over looking the river, and always a promenade by the river. Some of these buildings have been turned into restaurants that offer a combination of French and Laos cuisine. For meat eaters this is heaven with your choice of Steak Frites, steamed pork buns or satay chicken on skewers. For the veggie there is still much choice but menus must be scanned well for the tastiest looking veg noodle soup or Green Papaya salad. Perhaps also because of the French influence there a many bakeries around, in particular the Scandinavian Bakery serves fresh and still warm chocolate Croissants, good café au lait and great salad baguette sandwiches.
There are many accommodation options in this area from stylish French style villa's from around $70 per night for double, to $5 per night for a clean budget style room. Ideally one would want to stay on the old district by the river where some nice place's include: "Le Calao" Aurberge or inn (US$68) with a great outdoors eating area over looking the Mekong River (Website: http://www.calaoinn.laopdr.com/). Or another option is the Villa Santi (US$72 per) night which has a couple of beautiful guests houses; one by the river and another out of town by some waterfalls, both exquisite and very relaxing.
Both motor bikes and bicycles are available to rent for the day or week, which enables you to go exploring around the area. Things to do and see include: various waterfalls, caves with old Buddha statues inside, and there is always Mount Phousi (pronounced Pussy) to climb.
Thursday, August 15th, 2002
Vang Vieng, Laos
Left Luang Probang on a morning bus at 9:30 yesterday. We were actually supposed to leave at 7, we had bought tickets and everything. We got to the station at 6:30, ready to go, but found the bus was full. So what that we had bought tickets the day before. It doesn't really matter when there is not a seat on the bus. No worries, minor delay for Laos. We decided to go to the Scandinavian bakery and get our usual breaky. Time to read to Vientiane Times and relax. The drive back Vang Vieng is astonishing. 7 hours of the most amazing mountain scenery, passing countless villages perched on the side of the mountain. I'm not sure what these people do, as there doesn't seem to be any place to grow, or raise anykind of produce. We get into Vang Vieng about an hour before sunset and go and scout out a bungalow, which needs a bit of haggling to get the price down from $10 to and acceptable $7. The place is fantastic next to the river, with limestone growths rising out of the Earth on all sides. Emma and I take a walk around the property and enjoy a green tea and a sunset. Then off into town to get Dosa and have a beer with a couple friends which we had made on the trip.
Monday August 19th, 2002
Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok Airport once again, time to say good-bye to Asia for a while. Going home after 5 months traveling, trying to fight the craving for a latte. Actually on my way to Anchorage, Alaska for 4 days. Emma left a couple of days ago, and now it's solo time again. Now sitting at Chan Kai Shek airport in Taipai, waiting for my connection to Anchorage. I have a funny feeling that I've been here before. Same exact room maybe 6 years ago funny how one passess obscure places, with little meaning, so I've been to Taiwan twice. Well not really.
Tuesday August 20th, 2002
Alaska Railroad, USA
Alaska Railroad making its way down to Seward. Felt a little jet lagged this morning so woke up at 4 and had a nice yoga practice. The two older ladies from Nebraska where also early risers and were wandering around me as I contorted my body. They must have been pretty freaked out. Got on the train at 7 this morning, This is the real America. The people of the heartland taking their summer vacations. A bearded man with a tag that reads breakman paces up the aisle making sure all is fine. He totally fits the role. The rain is falling and leaves a heavy mist that coats the hilly landscape.
Culture shock being back in America, if you could call this place America. Took a walk around "downtown Anchorage", I don't know if you could really call it that. Passed groups of seedy looking people hanging around the bus depot. Wondered back to the hostel, wondering where I am.
Wednesday August 21st, 2002
Seward, Alaska
Ranger Rick talks about the puffins. Never knew that there was so much to know. They are swimming birds he sais, able to dive 600 feet down. Amazing. We are now on the Star of the Northwest cruising around the Fjords. It's overcast and cold, the place is beautiful if you use your imagination a little and pretend it's a bright sunshiny day. The ranger talks about the history of the region, about Rockwell Kent who was a famous German-American artist and came around here in 1918 to escape the people who called him a spy. He wrote a book called Wilderness, about living through and Alaskan winter. There are sea lions all around The other passengers on the boat are all real Americans. Something I haven't seen in a while.
Been staying at this awful hostel in Seward. Dingy, cold with mean host to boot. Met some real funny people though like Stoney, the poet, musician and movie maker, and Troy, the wanderer and fisherman. All we got was rain, so we wended up going to the glacier in the dreary drizzle. chThen back to Anchorage to catch my plane home. Settling in to wath the slow sunset.
Saturday August 24th, 2002
Easthampton, NY
Back home........
